The workpiece should be clamped down—not simply sitting on a router mat. Because a climb-cutting bit does not tend to pull into the workpiece, you don't have to lower your bit to increase its cut for each successive pass. Simply set the bit to its full cutting depth and remove a little more stock with each cutting pass. You'll be surprised at how quickly you can rout edges, and how much control you have over this freehand process provided you take light cuts. Although you get little splintering with a climb cut, it still makes sense to follow the traditional wisdom of routing the ends of a workpiece before routing the edges.
If you see some fuzzing of the grain when you climb cut, you probably have a dull bit. Some woods, such as butternut and willow, will fuzz even with sharp bits. Under many circumstances, it still makes sense to feed a router in a counter-clockwise direction.
That's because a bit fed that way tends to pull into the workpiece, template, or straightedge that you guide it against.
This tendency to hug whatever you guide the router against serves you well when it's essential that the router not wander off course. For example, when cutting a dado or the groove for holding a tambour door in the example, the cut must exactly follow its guiding edge. In addition, this style should also be utilized on casting, forgings or when the part is case hardened since the cut begins under the surface of the material.
This is one of those left hand cutters! How about turning the tool, and cutter the correct direction. G41 climb cutting on the right side. G42 or conventional cutting on the left. It depends on your perspective. Are they showing a view looking down at the work piece or looking up from the workpiece. There can only be one way to interpret the cut because machines only turn in one direction. In the examples the view has to be from under the workpiece looking up at the tool.
Technically, machines can go either direction M03 or M04 in Gcode , but basically everyone uses M03 in Great article. Very informative article. Could you show me where I went wrong,? More specific examples, like case hardening, why a particular direction of cut is preferred for a chunk of metal with unknown provenance. Thank you for the question Dustin! We would suggest conventional milling when your material has a rough surface, such as cast iron, or is anodized because when conventional milling your cut is scooping underneath the surface to remove your material making it easier on your tool.
Also, you want to conventional mill when using a dovetail cutter that has a weak neck diameter because this will help relieve the pressure on the neck of your tool. This is great info. I have always conventional milled with face mill to remove the scale off of titanium. Tool life is increased and getting under that scale to machine it off instead of slamming the insert into the scale each time.
Once scale has been removed, go back to climb cutting. Thanks for this very clear and informative explanation. It has been decades since I worked in a factory. Back then the Bridgeport milling machines had terrible backlash. They would chatter or jump when using climb milling. A 60 year old worn out manual Bridgeport is all I have to work with. So if you remember the picture frame example, you should always be able to look at a workpiece and quickly decide the proper routing direction.
Its a situation where you are going WITH the direction of the bit, and as a result, it requires careful attention and slight passes.
Its really the same concept behind a planer or drum sander. The work is fed into the machine and the blades are cutting against the feed direction. If you reverse the feed direction, you could easily have a wooden missile on your hands. And the same thing goes for climb-cutting. So if its so dangerous, why do we do it? Well, there are some instances where the grain direction of the wood is not cooperating, and a climb cut simply results in a smoother cut with no tearout.
In reality, those instances are few and far between for me. Here is a good article by Tom Hintz over at NewWoodworker. The Wood Whisperer is proudly sponsored by brands that Marc trusts. Thank you for making this possible. All rights reserved.
Designed and developed by Underscorefunk Design. This site uses affiliate links. Given this, please assume that any links leading you to products or services are affiliate links that we will receive compensation from.
However, there are millions of products and services on the web, and I only promote those products or services that I would use personally. The Wood Whisperer abides by word of mouth marketing standards and holds integrity in the highest regard. Should I ever be compensated to write, I will make full disclosure. I always give honest opinions, findings, and experiences on products. The views and opinions expressed on this blog are purely our own.
Any product claim, statistic, quote or other representation about a product or service should be verified with the manufacturer, provider or party in question.
0コメント